Why Visit Esfehan at the End of Your Trip to Iran

Isfahan

According to many who have already visited Esfehan, it can be considered the most charming and attractive city in Iran. It seems that there’s something in the air that makes the city so likable. As it’s got some of the highlights of a trip to Iran, the absolute majority of tour operators plan the itineraries in a way that Esfehan is the last stop before getting back to the capital city, Tehran.

Zayandeh Rud (The River) Cuts through the City

Si-o-Se Pol, a Safavid bridge in Esfehan

As the name explains it, the reproductive river, gives life to the farms all along it for 400 km, creates perfect living condition for people, etc. There are parks on both banks of the river for kilometers and this lets the people from Isfahan and environs to spend some time relaxing at the shade of the trees, stroll with friends and family and revitalize themselves and enjoy their time.

This river has been redirected in form of narrow streams of water snaking through residential areas and irrigating trees on both sides of it thus creating shady neighborhoods and stunning ambiance. Some of the royal gardens of Safavids (16th to 18th centuries) were irrigated this way.

City Planning of Esfehan

A lot can be said about the city planning at this beautiful city, but I suffice to what can be seen immediately. First of all, it’s green. You see several fully-shaded streets with pleasant sidewalks for pedestrians. There are some major boulevards like Chahar Bagh that split the city into Eastern and Western halves. There’s such a broad shaded space in the middle of the street that city hall has placed benches for the people to sit down and relax.

Like I’ve mentioned before, there are parks all along the river on both Northern and Southern banks. You can go jogging, walking, etc for hours. You can go on a picnic like the majority of Iranians do. You can hire a boat and go peddling. There are fabulous bridges with traditional tea houses attached to them where you can sip your tea while enjoying the sound of water and watching the life going on around you.

There are also good highway system that helps you make your inner city trips shorter at the outskirt of the city. A lot of overpasses and underpasses have been constructed to ease the traffic.

The way the city hall is working, like in most of the cities in Iran, the streets and alleys are all very clean. The street sweepers are working around the clock and people care very much about the cleanliness and attractiveness of their cities.

Historical Monuments of Esfehan

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque in Isfahan

Needless to say, when you visit Isfahan at the end of your tour to Iran, you leave the ultimate beauty of Islamic architecture to be seen during the last days of your stay in this country. Iranian architecture of each historical era has got its own charm, but when it comes to the structural techniques, tile glazing and decorating skills, there are no other old monuments in Iran that could match the buildings in Esfehan.

The famous Naqsh-e-Jahan Square (Emam Khomeini Square) is the heart of the historical city. The early 17th century square with its monuments and set of shops all around it has created a unique setting you won’t see anywhere else in Iran. The royal mosques, palace and the famous Qeysarieh bazaar have all contributed to make this place an unforgettable one.

There are other mosques like the old Friday mosque of Esfehan that are astonishing and worth visiting. There are other palaces like Chehel Sotun and Hasht Behesht that couldn’t be ignored while you’re in Esfehan. The old bridges and the arches on which the bridges are built together with their illumination at night are the attractions you cannot simply cross out of your list.

Handicrafts of Esfehan and Its Artists

A group of craftsmen working in a metalworking workshop in Esfehan

There are several workshops and art galleries where you can see the actual artists and craftsmen who are creating beautiful works of art. Out of approximately 150 different handicrafts produced in Iran, almost half of them are made in this city. Great collections of artistic works, carpets, miniature paintings, etc make Esfehan the city to do the shopping during your stay in Iran.

The globally recognized Iranian miniaturists who are working in their galleries in Esfehan, are open to welcome travelers in their shops. These people are keeping this Iranian art alive by following the traditional styles of centuries of miniature painting in Iran.

Armenian Quarter of Jolf

On the Southern bank of the river, where the community of Armenians have settled since 17th century, the time of Shah Abbas the first, Jolfa is the quarter worth visiting for both its fascinating churches as well as culture. There are lots of good coffee shops here that you can enjoy spending time in and having something to drink. Coffee is part of Armenians’ culture. So, if you want some good ones in some interesting ambiance, Jolfa is the place.

People

The last but not the least is hospitable local people, who are so proud of their city and happy to welcome foreign travelers. Even among Iranians, this is an attractive destination and every Noruz, Iranian New Year, as well as summer holidays, there are millions of Iranians who visit Isfahan and explore its beauty. So, the local people have got the reason to feel proud of their legacy.

Esfehan, because of what you’ve read so far, is the place where people have been exposed to tourists very much. Tourism has brought business and employment to the city. The local people are happy to see tourists and are helpful to them.

In general, if there’s a reason why some travelers come back to visit Iran again and again, it’s the people who are kind, generous and welcoming. You have to see it for yourselves to enjoy it.

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July 18, 2017

Why Visit Tehran in Your Tours to Iran

Modern Iran, Tehran

Tehran, the Capital City of Iran

Tehran, the capital city of Iran has got plenty of interesting things to offer to culture-oriented travelers. It is highly recommended to visit Tehran at the beginning of your trip to Iran for several reasons. Everything happens in Tehran first!

Visit Tehran to See Its Modernization Process

When you take a tour to Iran, make sure you spend some time in Tehran. The very first observation of any traveler to Tehran is its size, number of cars, crowd of people, etc. A city with an area of 750 square kilometer and the population of over 8,500,000 cannot continue its traditional life. It has to shift its nature into a modern one. This transition is an interesting one. Visiting Tehran provides an opportunity for you to explore its modern aspects.

Visit Tehran’s Cultural Centers

There are lots of Culture Houses in Tehran in which various activities are performed. There are art classes, movie theaters, art exhibitions, book stores, etc.

There are several theater halls in Tehran where different plays are performed. Artists are supported by local enthusiasts who are keen fans.

Iranian movie industry has gained huge amount of global attention in post-revolution era. There are good numbers of new movies made in Iran for their fervent fans. Most of these actors and actresses are from Tehran.

There are some music concerts from time to time in Tehran where pop, classical, traditional, etc musicians play and sing for the music lovers. The frequency and size of such events in Tehran are much larger than those of other cities of Iran.

Visit Tehran’s Museums

Tehran’s Iran Bastan museum is the best of its category among the national museums of Iran. The exquisite items on display at this museum can give you a thorough insight in what you will go through during your tour to Iran.

Golestan Palace Compound in Tehran

Royal palaces of Qajars in Golestan palace compound are great examples of architecture at this period. Also, the items showcased at its galleries provide you with a view on Qajar kings’ lifestyle. Sa’ad Abad palace compound as well as Niavaran palace compound introduce the lifestyle of Pahlavy dynasty that ended in the revolution at 1979.

Museums of various arts like contemporary arts, Under-Glass Painting, calligraphies of Reza Abbasy, Glassware and Potteries of Abgineh, etc are the best in their genres. The unique Treasury of National Jewels leaves every visitor in great shock with nothing equally dazzling and ornate anywhere in the world.

Carpet Museum presents its visitors with an exclusive collection of the best examples of Iranians’ art in one place. The items on display at this museum cannot be found anywhere else in any carpet galleries or stores across Iran.

Parks in Tehran

There are lots of parks and green areas in Tehran and a lot being planned to be opened to public. In addition to the obvious use of fresh air and peaceful setting of parks, there are other activities going on in these places. Some parks are just for women. Some offer classes on various traditional and modern arts. Some are hangouts for certain groups who exercise on regular basis. And a lot more …

Shopping Malls

Bazaars are not the only centers of purchasing goods anymore. People need a different type of place for their shopping. Shopping malls of Tehran are not the largest ones in Iran, but the quality of the items offered there are some of the best. Entertainment areas for children, coffee shops, restaurants, etc are among the points of interest at such places. Taking a walk in one of such places in Tehran provides good comparison point when you travel to the traditional cities of Iran.

Skiing Resorts

If you happen to arrive in Tehran in skiing season, there are a couple of possibilities to go skiing around the city. The largest skiing field in the Middle East is in Dizin, close to Tehran. You may take a skiing tour to Iran in Winter as well.

Mountain Hiking

Every weekend in Iran, Thursdays and Fridays, lots of people go hiking and walking at the mountain paths located at the north of Tehran where the high mountains are. This sport activity happens during weekdays as well, but if you want to see large number of people, make sure you choose weekends.

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July 18, 2017

Visit Arg-e-Karimkhani (Karim Khan Citadel) at Shiraz during

Iran Architecture, Shiraz

Citadel of Karim Khan e Zand

While reading and preparing to take a trip to Iran, you will easily notice there are a lot of historical sights and monuments to visit in each part of the country. Shiraz is also an ancient city with several old monuments still standing in good conditions. What you read here is an introduction to one of the most outstanding structures remained from Zand Dynasty, 2nd half of 18th century, Arg-e-Karimkhani .

Arg-e-Karimkhani (Karim Khan Citadel)

This structure can be easily found at a corner of Shahrdary Sq close to Shiraz bazaar. The appearance of the building resembles a solid fortress entirely made from bricks with military as well as residential functions. The construction of Karimkhan Citadel goes back to the second half of 18th century when Karimkhan-e-Zand was ruling in Iran from Shiraz, his capital city.

The structure reminds you of the plain brick-made buildings of 11th and 12th centuries when Seljuks were ruling in Iran. The corner bastions are very robust and decorated with bricks. One won’t realize how delicate some of the details inside the building could be without exploring it. At the south eastern corner of the citadel, a bastion is leaning like it’s going to fall down! It’s been like that for years and has been reinforced to stand on its place.

Above the entrance gate, you will notice a sizable tile-worked scene of Rostam’s battle against a demon. Rostam is the protagonist character of Shahnameh, the epic poem book of Ferdowsy, the most well-known Iranian poet of 10th and 11th centuries. After entering the vestibule a corridor leads you into the large courtyard with an astonishing orange garden!

The garden inside the large courtyard of Arg-e-Karimkhani takes approximately up to 80% of the area. The rest, courtyard floor, is all covered by marble stone from the time of construction. A pathway from the center of the garden leads to the middle of each side of the courtyard opposite a portico leading to some of the rooms of the building.

Main Rooms of Karimkhan Citadel

As you enter the courtyard from the vestibule, at the opposite side of the courtyard, under the large wind catcher, there’s a portico that could be seen right away. Inside the beautifully decorated rooms of this section, attractive wax statues revive the setting inside the court of Karim Khan where he met with officials and ruled over the territories under his domination.

The fresco embellishment of the walls and ceilings are fabulous examples of how beautifully Zand art vitalized official and non-official buildings of that period. A combination of gold leafs with relatively dark red colors were used to give elegant taste to the interior walls of the royal buildings.

Adjacent to this mail room, sometimes a couple of other rooms are opened to the public to see the local costumes of Iranian women of various ethnic groups. The colorful gowns seen here are still worn by local people when you travel to different parts of Iran.

Bathhouse of Arg-e-Karimkhani

On the very south eastern part corner of the courtyard, there’s a door that leads to the Arg-e-Karimkhani’s bathhouse, Hammam. This handsome bathhouse has got all the architectural sections of any similar structures, which make it worth a visit. The simple yet likable plasterwork decorations on the walls of this hammam, imply the love in flowers and nature, what Shirazi artists have always been inspired by.

Marble floors and seats, insulated pools for hot and cold water, clay-made pipes for heating beneath the floors and transferring water, and so forth are all observable and the echo returning your voice inside the big hall of this hammam reminds you of the lively setting of old bathhouses where royal family met and had themselves washed and massaged by the servants.

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July 18, 2017

Visit Pars Museum of Shiraz While Traveling in Iran

Shiraz

Pars Museum of Shiraz inside Nazar Garden

Pars Museum is a relatively small yet magnificent building constructed inside Nazar garden during late 18th century when Karim Khan Zand was in power in Shiraz, his capital city.

It’s part of a royal project where several buildings were built for the administration of Zand court and the public use of Shirazi people. Other buildings at this project include Arg-e-Karimkhani (Karim Khan Citadel), Vakil Mosque, Vakil Bazaar, Vakil Bathhouse, etc.

Location & Appearance of Pars Museum

This museum is a pavilion located inside Nazar garden, which goes back to Safavid period. While traveling in Iran and visiting historical monuments of Shiraz, you can find this site relatively opposite Karimkhan’s Citadel at a corner of Shahrdary Sq.

The garden used to be larger than what it is today, but it’s large enough to accommodate the building of this museum. The pavilion was called Kolah Farangy (foreign hat) building, a name attributed to similar buildings constructed after the influence of European arts in Iran.

The building itself is octagonal in shape from outside. The exterior of Pars Museum is decorated by beautiful tiles decorated with floral patterns and tree-of-life design where lots of birds and flowers are depicted in delicate harmony. The multi-sided design of this structure makes it look like burial buildings.

Since 1934, it was decided that it should be used as a museum. Therefore, some very exquisite items have been displayed inside the showcases of Pars Museum. The interior walls are elegantly embellished with Zand style frescoes and specific color combinations of the period, dark red and gold.

The inner space of the museum resembles a cruciform plan where showcases are arranged. On the walls, there are also, small items inviting art-appreciating eyes to themselves.

Karim Khan received dignitaries, officials and other VIPs at this building. As a matter of fact, it was a small hall for particular meetings.

Attractive Items on Display at Pars Museum

Some of the fascinating water-color paintings of Suratgar-e-Shirazy, the well-known Zand period artist, are on display here. There are beautiful calligraphic styles on old Qorans, spells, etc with high levels of artistic value. Also some very interesting armors and cold weapons (daggers and swords) are on display.

The burial place of Karim Khan Zand is also here at this pavilion. His tomb stone can be seen inside as well.

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July 18, 2017

Visit Mausoleum of Saadi | The Persian Poet in Shiraz

Iran Literature, Shiraz

Mausoleum of Saadi Shirazi, The Persian Poet of 13th Century

The mausoleum of Saadi, known also as the tomb of Sa’dy or Sadiyeh, is one of the major tourist attractions of Shiraz. Huge number of Iranians and non-Iranians pay a visit to this burial place and show their respect to Saadi and interest in his works, prose and poems. This Iranian poet is a globally known scholar whose words have touched many hearts across the world and wakened up many minds to take new steps in their lives to reach higher levels of humanity. The ambiance of this location is much more attractive than its architecture although it has got interesting character by itself.

A Few Words about Saadi

Saadi lived in 13th century, but he’s a man for all centuries. The rich depth of his writings and ideas with social and moral values have gone beyond time. His words have been quoted by Persian speaking people inside Iran and outside alike. Even Western sources have quoted him and continue to do so. He’s widely recognized as one of the great masters of classical Persian literature. Some even title him second only after Ferdowsy whose position for saving the Persian Language is unparalleled and no one could even do what he did.

The reputation of Saa’i in Persian literature is because of his eloquence in using the language. After 8 centuries, his works are still easy to understand and his ideas are still admirable for the speakers of the language. His style of Farsicizing borrowed words from Arabic in Persian made it a lot easier to use those words in everyday use and understand them although Arabic was not a language of the same origin as Persian.

Saadi was a man of learning. Spending infancy and childhood without a father and going through youth in poverty and hardship never stopped him from pursuing learning. Therefore, he left his birthplace to Baghdad where Nezamieh university was the center of knowledge and many studied there in the Islamic world. Among various subjects that he studied there, he proved to be excellent in Arabic literature, Islamic sciences, history, governance, law and Islamic theology.

Saaadi was a man of traveling. Mongols invasion and unstable situation in Iran led him a lifetime of living abroad in various countries like Anatolia, Syria, Egypt,Iraq, Sindh (Today’s Pakistan), India, Central Asia, Hijaz (Today’s Saudi Arabia), etc. Eventually, after 30 years, he returned to his birthplace as an elderly man and was welcomed and highly respected.

He was titled “Sheikh” because of his knowledge and found followers who pursued his values and words.

Saadi’s Literary Works

Saadi’s Mausoleum inside a Persian Garden, Shiraz, Iran

Within two years after his return to Shiraz, Saadi wrote his two most famous books: Bustan, also known as Bostan (The Orchard) in 1257 and Golestan, known as Gulistan (The Rose Garden) in 1258. Bostan is entirely in verse introduces moral virtues and Gulistan is mainly in prose containing stories and personal anecdotes.

His works in forms of Lyrics and Odes are also well-known by the enthusiasts of Persia literature. He has created some works in Arabic as well.

I’d like to quote one of his most famous works. There are several translations of his works, but I’d rather use the one by M. Aryanpoor as below:

Human beings are members of a whole,
In creation of one essence and soul.
If one member is afflicted with pain,
Other members uneasy will remain.
If you’ve no sympathy for human pain,
The name of human you cannot retain!

The Construction & Architecture of the Mausoleum of Saadi

Tiles Decorating the Entrance of Saadi Mausoleum

Saadi was buried in a village outside Shiraz which is now part of the city although it’s at the outskirt in a relatively poor neighborhood. Under Karimkhan-e Zand, the 18th century ruler of Shiraz, the present Saadi’s mausoleum was built to further honor him. It’s in form of a multi-sided building with a cupola on top. From outside it may look like a square structure due to its flat facade decorated with Shirazi tiles depicting tree of life in various colors. Inside, you can see the 8 corners of the building and large lamp hanging from the ceiling. His grave is beautifully carved in Persian.

Later this building was connected to another tomb of a Shirazi poet, Shurideh Shirazi by a colonnade portico. Under Reza Shah, the father of the last Shah of Iran and founder of Pahlavi dynasty, the mausoleum was restored and annexed by some newer parts. Andre Godard, the French architect had been assigned the task of restoring several historical monuments in Iran and so forth.

The Mausoleum of Saadi is located inside a garden where beautiful flowers and several cypress trees are planted to make the setting even more beautiful. A fish pond in an underground reached by some steps lead visitors to some water channels that has been in use since the time of Saadi at this place. Today there’s some fish crossing channels and coming to the center where people can see them.

Recently, as more and more people come to this place to visit Saadi’s Mausoleum and show their respect to the poet, the garden has been enlarged and can accommodate three times more visitors in it.

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July 18, 2017

Visit Mausoleum of Hafez the Persian Poet in Shiraz

Iran Literature, Shiraz

Mausoleum of Hafez in Shiraz, Iran

You should visit the mausoleum of Hafez if you go to Shiraz. Hafez is the 14^th century poet of Iran who was born, lived and died in Shiraz. Iran was ruled by Ilkhanid era. Shiraz exceptionally escaped the devastation and massacre of foreign Mongol invaders. Yet, living was tough and difficult for the intellectuals who wanted to express themselves and criticize the ruling system. This led Hafez to use figurative language in his works, a feature that has added to the beauty of his poems.

Father of Hafez was a wealthy merchant who died and left him and his mother in poverty. Therefore, he had to work hard and spend some time working in a bakery. However, he proceeded in learning literature and soon proved his proficiency in composing Persian poems. Many were attracted to his poems and since then he’s considered the master of Persian ghazals and no one else has been able to create such literary works.

Despite all dreadful restrictions when nobody could violate from the authority rules, Hafez used his tactfulness and brought his ideas to the public in the language of poetry without being a victim of his bold action. This quality is called “Rendy” in Persian. He mentioned several concepts of human life in his works, but one concept has always been continually present in his works – love.

The reputation of Hafez went beyond the borders of Iran and found some followers in India. Gute, the German poet was later inspired by him. When Hafez died, he was buried in the graveyard of Shiraz. That area has been the cemetery of the city. That’s why even today there are lots of graves in that area and some family tombs can be seen in the vicinity of the mausoleum of Hafez.

The Architecture of Hafez Mausoleum

Colonnade Portico divides the garden into two parts between the entrance and the tomb itself

Under Karimkhan-e-Zand, a mausoleum was built to honor Hafez at his burial place with eight pillars supporting a roof made of copper. The ceiling of the mausoleum of Hafez is decorated with mosaic works that shines in lively colors. This structure is located in a garden with family tombs on one side and a wall decorated by arches on the other side. Lots of flowers are planted and always kept in good condition by the organization in charge of maintaining the garden.

Under Reza Shah, the founder of Pahlavy dynasty, the last ruling monarchs of Iran, beginning with 1925, more redesigning of the mausoleum occurred. Andre Godard, the French architect was assigned the task of expanding and replanning the garden to make it more beautiful. As lots of visitors from inside and outside Iran go to this mausoleum everyday, more pace is needed. Therefore, the adjacent gardens have been connected through new doors recently to provide more space for the people.

A foundation of Hafez enthusiasts has got an office in the mausoleum of the poet. It’s located in a beautiful building to the west of the the main tomb. Together with the office of the mausoleum, this foundation hold exhibitions, provides information, etc to make this famous Iranian poet and poetry-related traditional arts more known to the public.

How Iranians Visit The Mausoleum of Hafez

Iranian woman praying at Hafez tomb

For Iranians, visiting the Hafez tomb is like going to a relative’s tomb. The feelings, of course, are more with respect than grievance. Some bring rosewater to wash the tombstone and put some flowers on the grave. Then, they touch the tombstone with few fingers praying by reciting a chapter of Koran to ask for blessing of his soul. Some proceed to request Hafez to talk to them through his poems and tell them about the state of their lives or give them some wise advice through the words in his poems. Then, they open their eyes and open the book on any page it randomly opens and continue to read it enthusiastically.

The concepts and topics mentioned in Divan-e-Hafez, his complete works, are so life-related and overwhelmingly attractive that one connects to them easily as if the poet is living at this time and offers us his wise words in a friendly manner to enrich our lives. That’s why man y love him and keep reading his poems on a daily basis.

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July 18, 2017

Visit Alamout Castle | The Most Famous Assassins | Fortress in Iran

Iran Mountain, Qazvin

Alamout Castle, Headquarter of Assassins

A trip to Alamout castle is full of wonders. It’s a hidden place among the high mountains of the Alborz, which assassins used as a stronghold for almost a couple of centuries to organize resistance against the foreign invaders occupying Iran. The incredibly hard terrain and location of the path to Alamout fortress had kept it from the eyes of the passer-bys.

You can only discover the genius choice of location and its marvelous architecture when you visit this Ishmaelite stronghold at the North East of Qazvin.

The Alamout Castle Itself

There are around 20 castles identified as Ismailis’ strongholds around Qazvin, where Alamout is located. Some local governors of the region, especially those known as the Alborz rulers, had used it as their own fortress. Hasan-e-Sabbah, the famous Iranian leader of Ismailis managed to make a plan to seize it without fighting or killing anyone. Therefore, it wasn’t built by him. First, he came to the area to work as a teacher and then found some allies inside the castle and via them, Hasan-e-Sabbah entered the stronghold and asked the previous owners to leave.

The constructional materials of this castle are bricks, gypsum, sarooj (traditional cement in Iran) and similar materials. It’s got four stories carved inside the rocks as well as several guard posts to have a good look over the valley. When you’re up there, you can see all around and beneath the hill. That’s why they call it Alamout – “Eagle’s Nest”.

Best Time to Visit Alamout Castle

If you plan to visit this site in Spring, April and May are the best times. If you go there in Fall, September and October are the best time. During these months, you can avoid the extreme heat or cold and there would less likely be any unpleasant weather conditions.

In Spring, when you drive toward this area, you will see the soft curves on the hills covered by natural grass creating a velvet-like scenery. The sunshine would also be pleasant and enjoyable. Coming from a polluted city like Tehran or other similar cities, you will certainly appreciate the huge amount of pure oxygen and astonishing landscape.

How to Reach Assassins’ Stronghold

Today, when you travel from Qazvin to Alamout, you have to cross high mountains and take hundreds of curves on a good road asphalted all the way for approximately 120 km. On the way, you will see the awesome mountains and difficult pathways the people had to take on the ancient times. You will wonder how they could make such a journey to find a fortress that isn’t easily noticeable.

On the other hand, because of the extremely cold winter time in this area, it’s unimaginable how people could survive in this remote place. You will find it amazing why they chose this location as a perfect hideout from which they planned and organized the hit-and-run missions.

You should bypass “Moalem Kelayeh” village on the way 20 km before getting to another village called “Gazorkhan”. From there, there’s few hundred meters to the foothill where the only pathway leads to the entrance of the castle. The interesting point is you get there and you cannot easily pinpoint where it is, because Alamout Castle is carved inside a huge rock that looks like every other rock on this mountain range.

About Ismailia

This sub-branch of Shiites Islam is known as Ismailia that is historically known as assassins in the Western world. It didn’t originate in Iran. The followers of this belief had entered the political realm of other countries like Syria before Iran. The founder of this movement in Iran is Hasan-e-Sabbah who traveled to west Asia and North Africa and learned about them before coming back home.

He used to be a fervent Sunni Muslim arguing with Shiites first. Then, he traveled to Egypt and Syria as a result of which he converted to Ismailism. The political situation of Iran and people’s living conditions under foreign occupation led him to take this idea very seriously and use his leading capability in organizing volunteers fighting against the enemies, Seljuks.

Ishmaelite movement in Iran is an example of a nation resisting against the foreign invaders’ oppression at home and how to cast fear in their hearts to create the feeling of insecurity in them. Iranians couldn’t mobilize an army to fight against Seljuks then. Therefore, the only way to show them they were not welcomed and should not feel at home was to assassinate their people in charge. This is the core of this movement and unlike the claims of other sources, young people didn’t attack officials to kill them in hope for getting to the heaven and enjoy paradise. Shiite Islam emphasizes on Martyrdom very much, but this was more of a political movement that naturally any nation may have picked as an inevitable method.

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July 18, 2017

A Walking Tour of Shiraz in Half a Day

Shiraz

arg-e-karimkhani-citadel

If you’re interested in walking and if long-distance drives have made you tired enough to long for a walking tour in Shiraz, you will enjoy this sightseeing excursion. It takes half a day and you visit 6 major sites before ending up in an enjoyable local restaurant where traditional food is served.

What I’m introducing to you at this post is the Zand Quarter that was initially built in the second half of 18th century when Karimkhan-e-Zand was ruling over most parts of Iran from Shiraz. This is the flourishing era of Shiraz when a lot was constructed and economy was thriving. The king, who preferred not to be called as such and named himself Vakil-o-Roaya (Attorney of Servants), had chosen to build a citadel in the heart of the city and ruled form there. So, you can begin your sightseeing from this spot.

1. Arg-e-Karimkhany (Karimkhan Citadel)

When you’re taking your tour to Iran, you rarely come across such a thing as an old citadel of huge size and quality in the center of a city. This is a rectangular brick-made fortress with bastion at all its corners located at the North East of Shahrdary Square. Karimkhan used to live inside this structure and ruled from this point. The stronghold appearance of this arg may make you think of anything but a presidential palace, but it has actually been such a building inside for him.

Karimkhan’s residence has got a decorative panel of glazed tiles on top of its Eastern entrance depicting Rostam, the protagonist of Shahnameh, the epic poems of Ferdosy, Iranian poet of 10th and 11th centuries. It resembles fighting against demonic forces. Inside, you’ll find a garden with orange trees and four major sections in the middle of each wing. In addition, there’s a private bath at the South East of this large courtyard that’ worth a visit.

2. Pars Museum

A View of Pars Museum Facade in Shiraz

Around Arg-e-Karimkhani, there is a little park these days and the pedestrians’ street, which is in fact a roof on top of an underpass for cars driving under Zand quarter. On the other side of this street and almost at the south of the citadel, there can be seen a mall but elegant octagonal building inside a garden called Nazar.

This mansion used to be called kolah farangy (foreign hat) building too, because it seemed to be like what people used to know as a foreign hat. It has been converted into what is called Pars Museum today.

Karimkhan used to meet with the dignitaries both inside and outside Iran who came to his court for official visits. Now, it is the exhibition of exquisite Qorans, lacquer-painted boxes, beautiful paintings, etc among other stunning objects that invite visitors to spend some time there to appreciate the art of Iranians.

3. Vakil Mosque

A View of Vakil Moque in Shiraz

Walking along the fences of Nazar garden toward East and a little before the main entrance to the bazaar, on your right-hand side, you will see a relatively broad street leading to the entrance of Vakil Mosque.

From far distance, it easily invites you to its colorful celebration of striking glazed tiles bearing beautiful floral patterns. After passing across a wide-open courtyard, you will enter the Southern Shabestan where a columned hall is hidden behind its tall entrance portal.

This hall is generously filled with pillars set in precise order and distance. They are so monochromatic that you will immediately notice the tiled ceiling leading you from the entrance to the mehrab. You won’t hues there’s such an elaborate mehrab and menbar (preacher’ seat) somewhere in this mosque when you were strolling at the courtyard.

4. Vakil Bathhouse

Inside Vakil Bathhouse in Shiraz during a Carpet Exhibition

This public bath is a few meters to the West of Vakil Mosque. You will find interesting architecture of Zand Era as well as tasteful decoration of cultural authorities of Shiraz in it.

The vax statues of people from all walks of life living during that period, tells you more about life in 18th century Iran. You will learn about different parts of a typical public bath as it used to be.

This bath used to had been converted into a restaurant and then an exhibition of Persian rugs. Eventually, it’s been decided to use it as a museum in which traditional bath ambiance is introduced.

5. Vakil Bazaar & Sara-ye-Moshir

Just go back to the main street where you were walking from Pars Museum toward East and walk a bit further on the same direction to get to the main entrance of the bazaar. You will reach a point where on both Northern and Southern sides of the street, you will find entrance to Shiraz bazaar. Which one is the more exotic for most of the visitors? The Southern one does. It’s got very colorful shops and aromatic atmosphere thanks to the herb shops at the beginning of its passageway. The Northern one is the section where most of the local people go to for shopping necessary items of an ordinary lower middle-class family. It has its own charm as well. If your time allows, you may want to explore this one as well.

You will be amaze by the fascinating high-arched ceilings of Vakil Bazaar at the Southern section. Soon after you enter, there’s a chaharsoo, a dome with four directions underneath. It gives you an idea of the passageways crossing the main one offering similar items, workshops, warehouses, etc. Proceed to the end of this passageway and you will see dozens of fabric stores selling glittering materials usually Qashqai nomads go to Shiraz to buy to make their traditional costume.

At the end, turn left and walk less than 10 meters to find an entrance on the left that leads to the astonishing set of stores offering Iranian traditional handicrafts from carpets to enamel works, from inlaid wood-works to copper-made items, etc. This colorful place I called Sara-ye-Moshir.

This section is an impressive part of the bazaar easily distinguishable for its charming tile works and the pool in the middle of its courtyard. Several types of handicrafts from Fars province can be found here.

6. Eat in Sara-ye-Mehr Restaurant

This is a traditional restaurant inside Sara-ye-Moshir. The ambiance and decoration are like Iranian teahouses in the past couple of centuries. Traditional food is served including kebabs, stews as well as Dizi, traditional broth. The food is delicious and your dining experience will keep you in the same traditional mood of the past. You may feel you eat during Zand period!

Half Day Tour Ends Here!

This walking tour is very appealing to most of the foreign travelers. You will enjoy it and feel you’ve seen plenty of Iran in the 18th and 19th centuries. You will be immersed into the local culture so much that you may forget this country has changed! I’m sure you will get a strong impression of the pat as well as today’s traditional Iranian lifestyle. So, take this walking tour of Shiraz in half a day and get acquainted with what’s out there.

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July 18, 2017

Genral View of Part of Persepolis

Iran Empire, Shiraz

Genral View of Part of Persepolis

One of the best-known and glorious sites of ancient world, Persepolis, is located in the plain of Marvdasht, about 75 km northwest of Shiraz. It was one of the dynastic centers in Achaemenid era. UNESCO has registered this impressive manifestation of Achaemenid architecture at the list of World Heritage Sites in 1979.

In about 518 BCE, Darius the Great ordered the construction of a palace complex on a platform at the foot of a mountain called Kooh-e Mehr (Mount Mithra). Subsequently, the structures were extended by Darius’ Successors, Xerxes and Artaxerxes I. The whole platform covered an area of about 125,000 square m. This complex consist of ceremonial palaces, provisional residential palaces, a treasury, and a chain of fortification.

Function of Persepolis

There is a wide-ranging debate on the function of Persepolis. Many scholars believe Achaemenids have built it as a ceremonial palace complex mainly for celebrating Nowruz, the Persian New Year festival. Others deny any evidence of celebrating Nowruz in Achaemenid period, and therefore, at Persepolis. Some scholars, on the other hand, see the site as a manifestation of royal power, or think of it as a political, economic, and administrative center of the empire.

Achaemenid Architecture at Persepolis

The palaces and their annexes of the site benefited from such luxury and glory that could raise a sense of respect and humility in every visitor. In constructing the palaces, not only the best materials were provided from all over the empire, but also all the ethnic groups living under the empire cooperated by offering their industries and skills as a sign of interest in unity.

The Gate of All Nation at Persepolis

The entrance gate to the site was originally from the south, through a staircase. To the right of this gate, you can see four cuneiform inscriptions in the name of Darius the Great on a huge block: Two in Old Persian, one in Elamite, and the fourth in Babylonian. These inscriptions informed visitors of the nature of Persepolis, people who contributed to its construction, and the Darius’ beliefs and ideals.

In the following, you can learn more about Achaemenid architecture by passing through different parts of this unique site. They’re as follows:

1. The Gate of All Nations: It was a four-columned square hall with three stone doorways. Two enormous carved winged-bulls are at the inner side of eastern as well as western doorways. The gates are decorated in the upper part with six cuneiform inscription sections. The eastern doorway leads to the Hundred Column Hall, and the southern doorway has a view of the Apadana, the administration hall of the Darius the Great. Xerxes built this gate later to lead the delegations from various nations to enter the site.

2. The Apadana: The audience palace of Darius and the largest building of the site. Its double-reversed stairways are the most splendid parts of Persepolis. The facades of these stairways are decorated by friezes and bear inscriptions of Xerxes. Once there were 72 columns supporting the roof of the palace but today only 13 of them are still standing.

Rock Reliefs on the eastern wall of Apadana palace

3. The Tachara: The private palace of Darius and the oldest one at the site. In this charming structure, you can find three different scripts carved in various historical periods: one in cuneiform from Achaemenid era, one in Pahlavi from Sassanid era, and the other one in modern Persian from Qajar era. Representations of servants and attendants are carved on the inner walls of the stairways, and the façade of the staircase shows two sphinxes, palm trees, and Persian soldiers.

General view of Tachara palace, the private palace of Darius the Great

4. The Harem of Xerxes: A two-wing structure to the west of the Treasury. Here, you can see the largest monoliths at Persepolis in form of two flanking pillars. Building the entire floor of the structure on a natural bedrock, not something man-made, indicates a subtle use of natural space in Achaemenid Architecture. Today, this building is the museum of Persepolis and administrative center of Achaemenid research.

5. The Tripylon or The Central Palace: This small structure, located at the center of the site, must be attributed to Xerxes and Artaxerxes I. Achaemenids have ornamented it lavishly. They had fully engraved its façade. This building was linked to the other palaces by three doorways, a couple of corridors and staircases. They used this building for meetings and consultation with high ranking officials.

Achaemenid Art at the Central Palace of Persepolis

6. The Hadish: The palace and temporary residence of Xerxes which was twice the size of the Tachara. Its two double reversed staircases are decorated in reliefs. Some parts of the inner façade also show representations of people carrying utensils or leading wild goats or similar animals. You can’t find similar representations anywhere else in Persepolis.

7. The Treasury: built by Darius, extended and formed like a fortress by Xerxes. A thick, mud brick wall has surrounded it leaving only a single entrance at the northeastern corner. This structure accommodated a large part of the huge wealth accumulated by Achaemenid emperors.

8. The Hundred Column Hall: The second largest palace of Persepolis functioned as an audience hall. It’s located to the north of the Treasury and east of the Apadana. The main feature of it was a square hall provided with ten rows of ten columns supporting the ceiling. In fact, Xerxes has built this palace to receive audience from different parts of the empire.

Entrance of 100-Column Palace

9. Royal Hill: The other monument part of Persepolis are the rock tombs of Artaxerxes III, Artaxerxes II and Darius III beautifully decorated by rock reliefs. These rock tombs are just some of the burial monuments of Achaemenids. They overlook the entire site.

The End of Story for Persepolis

Persians planned and directed the construction of this magnificent palace complex. The best artisans and artists from all the nations under the Persian Empire executed the project. This manifestation of Achaemenid architecture was being extended and maintained until 330 BCE, when Alexander of Macedonia brought its glory to an end by looting and burning it.

By setting Persepolis on fire, Alexander destroyed numerous books and a great part of Achaemenid art and culture. He plundered all gold, silver, and riches of the Persepolis treasury. It was the biggest treasury of Achaemenids.

Excavations and Discoveries:

So far, more than 30000 clay tables have been discovered through excavations of Persepolis most of which in Elamite. They’re the most valuable documents from Achaemenid era in terms of content. They contain important information on payment systems or payment records, work groups, social rights, and materials used in construction of this monument.

Cuneiform Script on Persepolis Walls

nscriptions of these clay tablets prove that Achaemenids had not used forced labor to construct Persepolis. They had paid all the workers. They also benefited from a kind of labor insurance.

Another discovery is a complex water disposal system with underground channels about 2 km long, and in some parts, up to 5 to 6 m high. Sewage and rainwater was led toward the southeastern corner of the complex to leave it through this drainage system. A sizable well at the foothills is dug and connected to this sewage system that functions like a flash tank to clear the channels and unblock any possible clogged spots.

Administration of the Site

Persian & Median Guards below the Xerxes Throne on Persepolis Walls

A board of trustees is elected as the administrator. Legal entities consisted of the governor of Fars Province, Deputy Head of Cultural Heritage Organization, Head of Iran’s Cultural Heritage, Handicrafts, and Tourism Organization, representative of Arsanjan, Pasargad, and Marvdasht, governor of Marvdasht, Head of Global Database of Persepolis, Mayor of Marvdasht, and some respectable trusted individuals.

What I told you here is just a drop in the bucket. You have to feel the real glory of Persepolis at first hand. I’m sure it will be one of your memorable experiences.

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July 17, 2017

Explore Sheikh Safi al-Din Khangah & Shrine Ensembles in Ardabil

Ardabil, Iran Architecture, Islamic Iran

Allah Allah Domes at Sheikh Safi al-Din Khangah & Shrine Ensembles

Shah Ismail ascended to power in early 16th century and founded Safavid dynasty in North West of Iran. He and his successors were the followers of a Sufi who had died three centuries before their time, but had kept his popularity and respect among the people. The World Heritage Site I’m going to explain here is the burial place of Shah Ismail and Sheikh Safi as well as a few other dignitaries of Safavid Era. It’s named after this Sufi: Sheikh Safi al-Din Khangah & Shrine Ensembles.

Who Was Sheikh Safi al-Din?

Courtyard between various structures of Sheikh Safi-al Din Shrine Complex

This Sufi used to live 700 years ago, meaning 3 centuries before Shah Ismail came to power. He was the son-in-law of the Grand Master of Sufi orders in Iran, Sheikh Zahed Gilani. As a spiritual leader of his time, Sheikh Safi inherited Zahediyeh from his master, a Sunni Muslim, and transformed it into his order called “Safaviyya”, believing in twelve Imam denomination of Shiite branch. As he’d been given the Ardabil and its dependencies, Safaviyya managed to gain authority over all those areas.

Eventually, the followers of this order managed to obtain the political and military control over that area. In early 17th century, a group of his followers headed by Shah Ismail founded Safavid dynasty in Iran and brought a religious government to power. This was the second time in Iranian history that religious-political leaders ruled the country. The name of this Dynasty comes from the name of this Sufi. So, the monument I introduce here is called “Sheikh Safi al-Din Khangah & Shrine Ensembles” after him.

Who Was Shah Ismail?

Ceiliing decoration inside Sheikh Safi-Al Din Shrine

He was born in Ardabil and turned into a fervent follower of Safaviyya militant order and founded Safavid dynasty. He unified Iran at a time when foreign invasions and political influence had strongly weakened Iranian authority over its territory. This was the largest and mightiest empire established in Iran after the Arabs’ invasion leading to the Iranian political decline.

Shah Ismail brought together different parts of Greater Iran – all the countries ruled by major powerful Iranian empires from Medes to Qajar era. These countries and territories included Azerbaijan, Armenia, Georgia, North Caucasus, Kuwait, Iraq, Afghanistan, and even some parts of today’s Uzbekistan, Pakistan, Syria, Turkey, and parts of Turkmenistan. Iran became a strong nation again. He converted Iran from Sunni Islam to Shi’a Islam. This differentiated religious and national identity of Iranians and helped Iran’s territorial integrity. Many argue this was a wise political movement strengthening Iran as a nation.

He was also a prolific poet composing poems in both Azerbaijani and Persian. His pen name was Khatai.

Sheikh Safi al-Din Khangah & Shrine Ensembles

Khangah is a spiritual retreat in the Sufi order. This UNESCO site is a complex consisting of several sections with different functions: a mosque, mausolea, a library, a school, a hospital, a cistern, kitchens, a bakery, and some offices. Iranians refer to it all as “Sheikh Safi Shrine in Ardabil”. In addition to its historical significance, the site is of high value in Iranian architecture. Also, from Islamic architecture point of view, it’s a landmark of Safavid era.

Entrance to Sheikh Safi al Din Shrine in Ardabil

The ensemble in this complex refers to a series of spectacular inherited items including:

A series of richly decorated and preserved facades and interiors, and
An exemplary collection of antique artifacts.

Altogether, it constitutes a rare collection of unique elements of medieval Islamic architecture.

The construction of Sheikh Safi al-Din Khanghah & Shrine Ensembles started in 16th century and continued till the end of Safavid rule, 18th century. It’s an artistic and architectural accomplishment of Iranians setting an example for all such Sufi retreats built later in Iran. Aesthetics and religion have come together and created a beautiful complex in Ardabil. The dark blue tiles, gilded ceilings of the interior and space allocation for various functions in carefully devised plan and proportion have made it a unique collection of structures.

The ceiling inside the Sheikh Safi al-Din Shrine

afavid architecture is the heir of its predecessors, Ilkhanids and Timurids. Therefore, their arts and architectural features are clearly distinguishable. The delicate ornamentation and spacious inner sections at Sheikh Safi al-Din Khangah & Shrine Ensembles represent the new architectural style of this era.

The social, religious and cultural influence of the Safavid period have lead to the formation of Safavid architecture. The other Sufi shrines built after that have been largely inspired by it.

Other Details About Sheikh Safi Shrine in Ardabil

The famous Ardabil Carpet is in Victoria & Albert Museum

The famous “Ardabil Carpet” was an Iranian masterpiece and the best carpet woven in Safavid period for this complex. It’s now in Victoria and Albert Museum in London. A copy has been recently woven in Iran, which is kept by this shrine.

Chinaware at Chini Khaneh of Sheikh Safi Shrine Complex in Ardabil

Chini Khaneh is the name of a section of this Sheikh Safi Shrine that accommodates several Chinaware from a collection imported from China during Safavid era. A lot of them were plundered at the time of Russians’ invasion to Iran. Most of the vessels displayed here bear the seal of Shah Abbas indicating he had endowed them to this shrine.

Conclusion

Sheikh Safi al-Din Khangah & Shrine Ensembles is collection you don’t want to miss if you travel to Iran one day. It’s a magnificent set of buildings with circular dome chambers accommodating tombs of Safavid kings, princes, Sufis, etc. The domes themselves known as Allah Allah are quite spectacular.

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July 17, 2017