A Short Visit to Soltaniyeh Mausoleum

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A General view of Soltaniyeh mausoleum

A General view of Soltaniyeh mausoleum

The ancient town of Soltaniyeh is located approximately 40 km west of Zanjan on the old road of Zanjan-Qazvin. Driving from any direction, you can redirect a bit into the present town of Soltaniyeh and pay a short visit to a fantastic World Heritage Site, Soltaniyeh Mausoleum. This town thrived under Oljayto, the Mongol king of Ilkhanid dynasty in Iran (14th century) and turned into the capital city of Iran.

He decided to build this burial structure in early 14th century because of his religious interest in Imam Ali, the first Shiite Imam as well as the rest of the Shiites’ imams. Eventually, he communicated with the religious leaders of Najaf and Karbala, today’s Iraqi cities, and got informed that exhumation weren’t allowed in Islam. According to many researchers, as he wasn’t allowed to bring back the bones of all the Imams to this mausoleum, he was the person who was finally buried there. Of course, some other researchers disagree with this assumption.

Historical Background

Although settlement had started in this area since first millennium, it was at the time of king Arghun of Ilkhanid dynasty around the end of 13th century that decision was made to further develop this area. He constructed a summer residence there due to the rich pasture for horses. Then, his son, king Ghazan came up with a decision to build a city there, of which little information is handed over to us. Later, his son, Oljayto, the first Ilkhanid king who converted to Islam, enlarged the city and called it Soltaniyeh, meaning imperial.

The ancient city was continuously inhabited until 16 and 17 century and together with Tabriz, Soltaniyeh turned into one of the main stops on Asia-Europe trade route. Several caravansaries were built along such routes. Some of them are close to this city which was a major stop on this well-known route.

The Monument of Soltaniyeh Dome

Inscription decoration at the ceiling under the Soltaniyeh dome

Inscription decoration at the ceiling under the Soltaniyeh dome

Soltaniyeh Dome, a highlighted accomplishment of Iranian architecture, is among the top three huge historic buildings in the world. The other two structures are Santa Maria Cathedral in Florence, Italy and Ayasofya Mosque in Istanbul, Turkey.

What distinguishes Soltaniyeh mausoleum, known as Soltanieh dome by many, is the substantial success of Iranian architects of that time. Building this burial structure, they had proved their achievement in innovative engineering creating spatial proportions, architectural forms and eye-catching decorative patterns using ground-breaking techniques at their time.

At the south west of the ancient city, a royal citadel was built with surrounding walls and watch towers with a moat around it filled with water to make sure it’s well-protected. The mausoleum was also built inside this royal citadel section. The construction continued for almost 10 years and resulted in an architectural masterpiece in central and western Asia.

There were three main sections in this mausoleum: The domed chamber, cellar and Torbat Khaneh. Most of the decoration have been applied to the inner part of the structure of the domed chamber. The cellar, the entrance of which is situated inside the domed chamber, is supposed to have accommodated the grave of the person(s) for whom the mausoleum is built. And Torbat Khaneh (meaning the house of holy earth), refers to the section attached to the domed chamber and originally allocated to the corpses of Shiite Imams.

Structure of Soltaniyeh Mausoleum

Islamic art if form of painted inscription of Koranic verses, holy names, etc.

Islamic art if form of painted inscription of Koranic verses, holy names, etc.

 

Obviously, like many other examples of Islamic architecture of 13 and 14 centuries, bricks and mortars have been the main construction materials used to build the monument. It’s built on a rectangular plan together with the spaces around the domed chamber. The space allocated to the domed chamber is in octagonal shape. Symmetry has been firmly observed in the construction. There are several ideas about the main and other entrances to this Mausoleum. Seemingly, there must have been three doors leading visitors to the inner part of the building. The floors have been treated with alabaster stone creating a clear white surface.

The double-shell dome is approximately 50 meters high with a diameter of approximately 25 meters. This indicates how heavy it is – 200 tons! Various sections of the structure have been joined to one another using dented wooden beams made from pine trees saturated with particular kinds of oil to make sure they could reduce the structure’s tension. The incredible fact about the structure is that its foundation is maximum 90 centimeters deep into the ground, not more. It has resisted against more than 300 earthquakes so far suffering some damages, but it still stands there with its entire splendor.

Plaster work decoration of the balcony under the dome at Soltaniyeh

Plaster work decoration of the balcony under the dome at Soltaniyeh

On top of the octagonal structure, what you see from outside is a series of eight minarets standing at the corners of this 8-corner structure. The blue dome is shining inside the space surrounded by these minarets. You won’t see much decoration on the façade of the structure from outside. As a matter of fact, you will notice the magnificence of the monument when you visit inside the building.

Decorations inside Soltaniyeh Dome

Inscription by plain & glazed bricks inside Soltaniyeh mausoleum

Inscription by plain & glazed bricks inside Soltaniyeh mausoleum

 

The Islamic arts used at this monument are of various forms. The decorative elements applied in Soltaniyeh Mausoleum are:

  • Brick decorations
  • Plasterwork decorations
  • Inscriptions
  • Tile works
  • Painted decorations
  • Stone decorations
  • Wooden decorations

The interior walls have been largely decorated by plaster and glazed bricks. The fascinating inscriptions and motifs have been made with plasterwork. The ceiling of the balcony just under the dome, which can be seen from outside, has got unique orange-color plaster works in form of geometric and plants patterns and inscriptions.

Orange-color decoration of Soltaniyeh balcony under its dome

Orange-color decoration of Soltaniyeh balcony under its dome

 

There are religious inscriptions uniquely worked out in small and large sizes and particular scripts of kufic and Thuluth. Sometimes plaster has been used for this art and sometimes glazed bricks. The study of the content of these inscriptions indicates the political-religious developments of Oljayto’s ruling period.

 

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Visit The Ancient Bam City

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The ancient city of Bam and its protective walls

The ancient city of Bam and its protective walls

 

The ancient city of Bam, a world heritage site registered in UNESCO’s list, has emerged at least at the time of Achaemenians (6th to 4th centuries). The flourishing time of Bam traces back to 7th to 11th centuries when it was at the crossroad of ancient trade routes. This city started to be inhabited since Achaemenian period until around 200 years ago. After that, it was used as military station for soldiers until approximately 80 years ago.

The creation of the ancient city of Bam was indebted mainly to the ancient underground water supplement system of Iran called Kariz (qanat in Arabic). This system has been continuing the provision of water for this city till now.

Whereabouts of Ancient City of Bam

It has been located between the Southern part of Kavir-e-Lut, Southern desert pit of Iran and the Northern part of Barez local mountain range, South East of Iran. The importance of Bam has been due to its geographical location in a broader scale, in connection to the centers of commerce in Western Asia during antiquity.

Originally, like any other communities at or inside deserts, the city was surrounded by protective walls and its governor was living within another walled section, a citadel, inside the walled town. The entire walled city of Bam was 200,000 square meters. Desert towns feel safer this way and can grow much more confidently. The surrounding wall is as long as 1810 meters and its height varies from 15 to 18 meters. There seems to have been 38 watch towers along this wall and a deep moat outside the city’s walls, which was filled with water at the times of danger.

Apart from the walled town and its citadel being the central focus of this valley, the cultural landscape of Bam is connected to a series of forts and citadels now destroyed. Today you may see a fortress of 7th century called Qale Dokhtar at the North of Bam and a couple of shrines dated back to 11th and 12th centuries – Emamzadeh Asiri and Emamzadeh Zeyd mausoleums.

Various Parts of Ancient City of Bam

Tourists visiting the ancient city of Bam after earthquake

Tourists visiting the ancient city of Bam after earthquake

 

What makes the ancient city of Bam unique in regards to its construction is the vernacular technique applied there: Traditionally, the architects have used mud layers (Chineh), sun-dried mud bricks (khesht), and vaulted and domed structures. This is the best example of desert architecture that you will find in several parts of Iran around the deserts. No matter which part of the city we visit, we will see the same style and technique applied to the structures.

The ancient walled city of Bam consists of 2 main sections for the governor (citadel) and common people. The Governor’s section, built on top of a rock higher than the rest of the city, includes royal stable, garrison and governor’s house. The common people’s section, spreads out from the foot of the governor’s section to the city walls in a relatively flat area, has got all including what a city required: 528 residential houses, main bazaar, Meydan (Tekieh), Friday mosque, Mirza Naeem School, Zurkhaneh (traditional sport club), Malek-o-Tojar House (a merchant house), caravansary, public bathhouse (hammam), Jews’ Sabat (rest area) and a noble’s house.

Some of the most important structures are:

Bazaar: it’s 115 meters long accommodating 42 shops in it. It used to offer silk and cotton fabrics to the traders traveling on the spice route, a sub-branch of silk route.

Friday Mosque: It was built on the site of a former temple, a Zoroastrians’ fire temple, with four eyvans (porticoes), later changed to three.

Zurkhaneh: The tradition of building such clubs dates back to ancient times in Iran when this sport was exercised.

Mirza Na’eim School: it’s a beautifully built structure consisting of two sections of interior (living quarter for the teacher) and exterior (studying quarter for the students).

What separates the common people’s section from the governor’s is the government’s reinforced gate. There are two rooms attached to this gate when you enter with their upper floors for the guards. After you cross this gate, you will see a different section. First you go to the left where the royal stable is located. You turn right and go through a garrison where the governor’s soldiers and guards were stationed. A corridor on the right side leads you to a steep slope which goes up first toward the commander’s house on the right and eventually leads to the top, house of governor.

Governor’s Section at the Ancient City of Bam

Governor’s Section at the Ancient City of Bam

 

The main part of this section is where the Bam’s governor used to live:

House of Governor: it consists of summer eyvan, winter eyvan and open space. There’s a building called four-season mansion. It could be used during all seasons as the name implies. It was a three-storey building. On top of all, there’s a watch tower square in base, which used to be circular and changed shape under Qajars after some destruction. Behind all parts of the governor’s section, there’s a private bath.

Water Supplement System at Bam

Apart from the Kariz system that brought water from Barez Mountains to the vicinity of the walled town and was transferred inside the walled city of Bam through a U-shaped pipe, many houses had their own wells. There was a deeper well half way to the top at the garrison and one well, the deepest, next to the private bath of the governor. Some water canals are on the surface for the irrigation of the trees.

Water supplement helps the irrigation of palm trees

Water supplement helps the irrigation of palm trees

Bam’s Present Condition

Outside the walled city, as the time passed by, the population grew and the security is the region was supported, some new houses were built and people started relocating to those houses. The centers of business moved outside and main places for religious ceremonies went outside the city walls. There are several palm tree areas and many trees along the streets shaping a garden city out there. Gradually, the walled city was evacuated and the new city of Bam was formed.
Some started looting the ancient city for the antiques, some for its fired bricks and some for the old soil to be used for their gardens. All these contributed to the tear and wear of the ancient walled city of Bam.

The 2003 earthquake largely devastated the new city and the ancient city of Bam. The newly restored city has kept its city planning and the ancient monuments’ restoration is underway. Fortunately, the foundations of several walls were still standing after the earthquake. This made the restoration job move convenient.

The city is undergoing more restoration these days, but it’s worth some exploration. Even before the earthquake when several world travelers visited the city, it wasn’t complete and intact. When you go to the ancient city of Bam, you see more or less what could be seen before 2003’s natural disaster.

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Tchogha Zanbil Temple 1st Iranian Site Registered in UNESCO

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General view of Tchogha Zanbil Elamite Temple

General view of Tchogha Zanbil Elamite Temple

 

The name Tchogha Zanbil isn’t a very understandable word in Persian either. Tchogha Means “hill” in Lurish language of Bakhtiary tribes in Iran. Zanbil means “basket” in Persian. Tchogha Zanbil means a hill that looks like a basket! This is how people referred to this historical mound before it was noticed and excavated by professor Girshman, the French Archaeologist, between 1951 and 1962.

Why Was Tchogha Zanbil Built?

This temple was built by an Elamite king called “Untash Napirisha” in approximately 1275 BC around 35 km South of the ancient city of Susa. Tchogha Zanbil is a temple of gods. It is believed that originally it had been decided to accommodate 22 gods, but right after the death of Untash Napirisha, the construction of temples discontinued and the successors never continued what had been initially started. Today there are only 12 temples for eleven lesser important gods and one main god called “Inshushinak”, the god of Shush (Susa).

King Untash Napirisha built a town and named it after himself to challenge Susa that used to be the main center of Elamites for a long time. At the center of this walled town, he built Tchogha Zanbil to honor gods and accomplish a new style of temple construction.

The Structure of Tchogha Zanbil Ziggurat Temple

Model of Tchogha Zanbil Ziggurat Temple and its surrounding

Model of Tchogha Zanbil Ziggurat Temple and its surrounding

 

The ancient town of Untash Napirisha was surrounded by a wall approximately 4 km long. The temple was located in the middle of this town surrounded by two walls around it separating the temple from the town. You see one separating wall at the picture above as well as some other buildings between this wall and the other wall, which isn’t present at this picture. Also, there were several gates along these walls.

The main temple of Tchogha Zanbil is an example of Iranian architecture in pre-Islam era. It’s in form of a ziggurat, but unlike the Mesopotamian ziggurats, each level has not been built on top of the previous one. The temple was erected in two stages:

  1. First, a series of rooms were constructed around a central courtyard, and
  2. Then, new upper floors were built from the ground floor to the top.

Four floors have been unearthed by Girshman. Based on the height of each floor, he assumes a fifth floor (a chamber) must have been there, the actual temple, called “kukunnum“. Considering such 5th floor there on top, the ziggurat’s height must have been 52 meters. Today only 25 meters of this structure is standing there yet giving such an awesome appearance to the temple.

The pavement around the temple are all treated by fired bricks extended from the structure to the first surrounding wall. The inner walls of the structure have been built with mud-bricks and the exterior walls with fired bricks.

+3000 years old original footprint on the pavements of Tchogha Zanbil Temple

+3000 years old original footprint on the pavements of Tchogha Zanbil Temple

Particular Features of Tchogha Zanbil

At the top of each entrance gate, located in the middle of each wing of this approximately square-based structure, there’s a vault made of bricks. This is the oldest example of vaults in ancient Iran. Later under Achaemenians, palaces had flat ceilings. Only under Sassanians, 1600 years later, vaults and arches became popular again.

In certain rows of the exterior walls, in one line, a lot of bricks are inscribed by cuneiform inscriptions ordered by Untash Napirasha dedicating the ziggurat temple of Tchogha Zanbil to the “god of Susa”, Inshushinak.

Bricks inscribed by cuneiform Script

Bricks inscribed by cuneiform Script

 

Unlike Susa and Kabnak (Haft Tappeh) ancient towns, where each tomb accommodated several corpses, here at Al Untash Napirisha, each tomb had only one skeleton and the rest of the bodies had been cremated. It’s not known why they were treated like that.

The doors of temples and palaces of the town were all made of wood decorated with glass tubes to be translucent. At one of the rooms of the temple, some black and some white tubes have been found that were used to decorate Tchogha Zanbil ziggurat, palaces, temples, palaces and even surrounding walls. This indicates Iranians were familiar with glass-making techniques around 33oo years ago.

At the North West of the temple, there’s a reservoir of water in which water was purified to be drinkable. It’s said that Untash Napirisha had brought water from some 50 km away from the town to be purified at this place. There were 9 conduits to lead the clean water to a small pool at a higher level so that people could fetch clean water there for consumption. According to another assumption, it was used to drain the rainwater from the surrounding buildings.

Water Treatment Structure at the North of Tchogha Zanbil Temple

Water Treatment Structure at the North of Tchogha Zanbil Temple

Arts & Architecture at Tchogha Zanbil

For embellishment, glazed bricks, gypsum plaster works, vaulting, and some architectural ornament of faience and glass were largely made use of . Professor Girshman has discovered some ancient artifacts categorized as Elamite arts. Cylindrical seals, potteries, metal objects, clay-made figurines, and several other decorative pieces are some of such discoveries.

According to the evidences, ancient Iranians have been specialized in making sculptures. A bronze-made sculpture of Napir Asu (around 1800 kg), the wife of King Untash Napirisha, has been made by the same people, Elamites. It’s in Louvre museum now.

Bronze Sculpture of Queen Napirasu

Bronze Sculpture of Queen Napirasu

There were clay made bulls protecting the ziggurat’s temple entrances. One of them with cuneiform inscription on the back of the animal has been restored by the excavator’s wife.

Clay-made bull from Tchogha Zanbil temple

Clay-made bull from Tchogha Zanbil temple

 

Snakes were the motifs symbolizing protection against evil forces. They were used at the jar caps. Also, snake motifs were found at the entrance gates and doors in form of glass tubes for protection. The motif of two mating snakes were Elamite symbols of fertility that were later used in other civilizations as well.

How It Was Destroyed

After Untash Napirisha’s death, Tchogha Zanbil temples remained a center of worshiping various gods for religious pilgrims and burial ground until around 1000 BC, when it was destructed by the Assyrian king Ashur Banipal. Assyrians believe this destruction led to the abandonment of the site at 646 BC, but according to the evidences discovered in one of the temples, Tchogha Zanbil and its surrounding structures were entirely abandoned at around 1000 BC. The city wasn’t rebuilt again.

 

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Visit Takht-e Soleyman an Amazing Iranian Archaeological Site

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General View of Takht-e Soleyman, an Iranian Archaeological Site

General View of Takht-e Soleyman, an Iranian Archaeological Site

 

Takht-e Soleyman is an Iranian archaeological site, located 45 km northeast of Takab County in West Azerbaijan province, northwest of Iran. It covers an area of about 124000 sq. m, and the name is Persian equivalent for Solomon’s Throne.

In different historical periods, Medians, Parthians, Sassanids, and Mongols had settled at this area. This historical-cultural complex includes traces of human settlement from the first millennium BC. According to some historians, it has been the birthplace of Zoroaster. UNESCO has approved this monumental complex as World Heritage Site in 2003.

Exploring Takht-e Soleyman

Around the entire site, there is a round fortified platform with the height of about 60 m above the surrounding plains. An artesian lake, a Zoroastrian fire temple, and Anahita temple are located on this platform. There are remarkably interesting points both inside this site and in its vicinity. Here’s a short introduction:

  • The artesian lake
Lake of Takht-e Soleyman In the Middle of the Archaeological Site

Lake of Takht-e Soleyman In the Middle of the Archaeological Site

 

Thousands of years ago it was just a spring. But, during years, sediments from its water raised a wall around the outer edge, and the result is a lake 60 meters deep you can see today. Several streams branch off the lake, which waters surrounding lands.

  • The Zoroastrian fire temple
Ruins of Azar-Goshansb fire temple

Ruins of Azar-Goshansb fire temple

It was the third principal fire temple for Iranians in Sassanid period, located to the north of the lake, known as Azargoshasb fire temple. The royal family and military commanders had a sole right to worship there. As a symbol of national unity, the government and people of the time highly respected the temple. The fire in it has been a symbol of Zoroastrianism authority for about seven centuries.

  • Anahita temple

 

Inside Anahita Temple at Takht-e Soleyman

Inside Anahita Temple at Takht-e Soleyman

 

A temple attributed to Anahita, the goddess of water which is located to the northeast of the lake. People used to praise water in this temple. In some periods it was customary, in time of wars, to throw valuable and precious votive objects to the lake and believed that Anahita would protect them against enemies. So, there is hope for great treasure lying at the lake bed!

There are also two adjacent sites, namely Kooh-e Belgheys (Belgheys Mountain) and Zendan-e Soleyman (Solomon’s Prison). Belgheys was the name of the Queen of Sheba, Solomon’s wife, according to Islamic tradition.

  • Belgheys Mountain

It lies 8 km northeast of Takht-e Soleyman with two peaks of about 3200 and 3655 m high. The citadel and fortifications of Belgheys Throne are located on the southern peak. Fortifications have watchtowers overlooking the region.

At the mountain, you can enjoy the beautiful scene of a lake between the two peaks created by melting snow. It’s a scenic view for most part of the year although in recent years the lake dries up in summers because of low rainfall.

  • Solomon’s prison
Zendan-e Soleyman near Takht-e-Soleyman

Zendan-e Soleyman near Takht-e-Soleyman

 

It’s a conical hill lying 3 km west of Takht-e Soleyman with the height of about 100 m above the surrounding plains. At the summit of this hill, there’s a deep crater about 60 m in diameter which most likely was filled with water two thousand years ago.

The reason for such naming is local legend which says here is the place in which Solomon imprisoned disobeyed demons. It was a Zoroastrian place of worship and sacrifice in Sassanid era.

Ups and Downs over the Years

This archaeological site was the largest educational, religious, and social center in pre-Islam era in Iran. There are some indications of the earliest settlement during the first millennium around the site. Sometime in the early years of Achaemenid era, The rulers constructed some structures at Takht-e Soleyman. Also, there are some traces showing Parthians had been using the site.

Sassanids constructed a mud-brick wall around the central lake, gates and temples. The site gained its religious importance during this period. Zoroastrian government moved the holy fire to the temple here and called it Azar Goshansb, which turned to be one of the three major temples of Sassanid era.

One of the Gateways at Takht-e-Soleyman

One of the Gateways at Takht-e-Soleyman

 

But in 624 AD, the Roman Emperor, Heraclius, destroyed it in an attack to Iran. It happened in the reign of Khosrow Parviz, the late Sassanid king.

After the decline of Sassanid Empire and acceptance of Islam by Iranians, this huge complex couldn’t revive again after the severe damages it had received in the war between Iran and Rome .

It went on until 13th century when Abagha Khan, the second Mongol ruler of the Persian Ilkhanid, gave new life to Takht-e Soleyman by doing extensive repairs and construction of new buildings. They used it as the royal summer resort for some time. Most of the construction occurred at the Southern side of the site little of which is remained. In 14th century Mongol princes stopped inhabiting this site and left it.

And as my last word to finish: if you’re interested in mysterious issues, this Iranian archaeological site has remarkable ones to offer, so don’t miss it.

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Explore Sheikh Safi al-Din Khangah & Shrine Ensembles in Ardabil

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Allah Allah Domes at Sheikh Safi al-Din Khangah & Shrine Ensembles

Allah Allah Domes at Sheikh Safi al-Din Khangah & Shrine Ensembles

 

Shah Ismail ascended to power in early 16th century and founded Safavid dynasty in North West of Iran. He and his successors were the followers of a Sufi who had died three centuries before their time, but had kept his popularity and respect among the people. The World Heritage Site I’m going to explain here is the burial place of Shah Ismail and Sheikh Safi as well as a few other dignitaries of Safavid Era. It’s named after this Sufi: Sheikh Safi al-Din Khangah & Shrine Ensembles.

Who Was Sheikh Safi al-Din?

Courtyard between various structures of Sheikh Safi-al Din Shrine Complex

Courtyard between various structures of Sheikh Safi-al Din Shrine Complex

 

This Sufi used to live 700 years ago, meaning 3 centuries before Shah Ismail came to power. He was the son-in-law of the Grand Master of Sufi orders in Iran, Sheikh Zahed Gilani. As a spiritual leader of his time, Sheikh Safi inherited Zahediyeh from his master, a Sunni Muslim, and transformed it into his order called “Safaviyya”, believing in twelve Imam denomination of Shiite branch. As he’d been given the Ardabil and its dependencies, Safaviyya managed to gain authority over all those areas.

Eventually, the followers of this order managed to obtain the political and military control over that area. In early 17th century, a group of his followers headed by Shah Ismail founded Safavid dynasty in Iran and brought a religious government to power. This was the second time in Iranian history that religious-political leaders ruled the country. The name of this Dynasty comes from the name of this Sufi. So, the monument I introduce here is called “Sheikh Safi al-Din Khangah & Shrine Ensembles” after him.

Who Was Shah Ismail?

Ceiliing decoration inside Sheikh Safi-Al Din Shrine

Ceiliing decoration inside Sheikh Safi-Al Din Shrine

He was born in Ardabil and turned into a fervent follower of Safaviyya militant order and founded Safavid dynasty. He unified Iran at a time when foreign invasions and political influence had strongly weakened Iranian authority over its territory. This was the largest and mightiest empire established in Iran after the Arabs’ invasion leading to the Iranian political decline.

Shah Ismail brought together different parts of Greater Iran – all the countries ruled by major powerful Iranian empires from Medes to Qajar era. These countries and territories included Azerbaijan, Armenia, Georgia, North Caucasus, Kuwait, Iraq, Afghanistan, and even some parts of today’s Uzbekistan, Pakistan, Syria, Turkey, and parts of Turkmenistan. Iran became a strong nation again. He converted Iran from Sunni Islam to Shi’a Islam. This differentiated religious and national identity of Iranians and helped Iran’s territorial integrity. Many argue this was a wise political movement strengthening Iran as a nation.

He was also a prolific poet composing poems in both Azerbaijani and Persian. His pen name was Khatai.

Sheikh Safi al-Din Khangah & Shrine Ensembles

Khangah is a spiritual retreat in the Sufi order. This UNESCO site is a complex consisting of several sections with different functions: a mosque, mausolea, a library, a school, a hospital, a cistern, kitchens, a bakery, and some offices. Iranians refer to it all as “Sheikh Safi Shrine in Ardabil”. In addition to its historical significance, the site is of high value in Iranian architecture. Also, from Islamic architecture point of view, it’s a landmark of Safavid era.

Entrance to Sheikh Safi al Din Shrine in Ardabil

Entrance to Sheikh Safi al Din Shrine in Ardabil

 

The ensemble in this complex refers to a series of spectacular inherited items including:

  • A series of richly decorated and preserved facades and interiors, and
  • An exemplary collection of antique artifacts.

Altogether, it constitutes a rare collection of unique elements of medieval Islamic architecture.

The construction of Sheikh Safi al-Din Khanghah & Shrine Ensembles started in 16th century and continued till the end of Safavid rule, 18th century.  It’s an artistic and architectural accomplishment of Iranians setting an example for all such Sufi retreats built later in Iran. Aesthetics and religion have come together and created a beautiful complex in Ardabil. The dark blue tiles, gilded ceilings of the interior and space allocation for various functions in carefully devised plan and proportion have made it a unique collection of structures.

 

The ceiling inside the Sheikh Safi al-Din Shrine

The ceiling inside the Sheikh Safi al-Din Shrine

afavid architecture is the heir of its predecessors, Ilkhanids and Timurids. Therefore, their arts and architectural features are clearly distinguishable. The delicate ornamentation and spacious inner sections at Sheikh Safi al-Din Khangah & Shrine Ensembles represent the new architectural style of this era.

The social, religious and cultural influence of the Safavid period have lead to the formation of Safavid architecture. The other Sufi shrines built after that have been largely inspired by it.

Other Details About Sheikh Safi Shrine in Ardabil

The famous Ardabil Carpet is in Victoria & Albert Museum

The famous Ardabil Carpet is in Victoria & Albert Museum

 

The famous “Ardabil Carpet” was an Iranian masterpiece and the best carpet woven in Safavid period for this complex. It’s now in Victoria and Albert Museum in London. A copy has been recently woven in Iran, which is kept by this shrine.

Chinaware at Chini Khaneh of Sheikh Safi Shrine Complex in Ardabil

Chinaware at Chini Khaneh of Sheikh Safi Shrine Complex in Ardabil

Chini Khaneh is the name of a section of this Sheikh Safi Shrine that accommodates several Chinaware from a collection imported from China during Safavid era. A lot of them were plundered at the time of Russians’ invasion to Iran. Most of the vessels displayed here bear the seal of Shah Abbas indicating he had endowed them to this shrine.

Conclusion

Sheikh Safi al-Din Khangah & Shrine Ensembles is  collection you don’t want to miss if you travel to Iran one day. It’s a magnificent set of buildings with circular dome chambers accommodating tombs of Safavid kings, princes, Sufis, etc. The domes themselves known as Allah Allah are quite spectacular.

 

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Bazaars in Iran (Persian Bazaars)

Bazaar of Tehran

Bazaar of Tehran

Iranian Bazaars (Persian Bazaars), these very old structures, were first formed as a set of shops at the sides of water streams or rivers in the cities.

Later, they were roofed and changed into present forms we see today in some parts of the world. Bazaars can be seen in almost all of old cities and towns of Iran. They are still in function.

Definitions of Bazaar-Related Terms:

To better understand the function of bazaars, we need to get acquainted with some words and terms used in Farsi. Here are some of the commonly used ones:

  1. Rasteh Bazaar: It refers to the main passageway with shops of the same guilds.
  2. Dalan: It is a corridor that connects passageways in a straight or non-straight way.
  3. Qeisarieh: It is a passageway in which light-weighed and expensive goods are sold.
  4. Tim & Timcheh: They refer to large and small, enclosed areas in which heavy-weighed and expensive goods are sold. The roofs in such structures are most beautifully decorated implementing various fields of art.
  5. Carevansara: It is the sleeping place for travelers, sometimes used as a warehouse. Offices can be at the same area too.
  6. Sara: It functions as a caravansary, but the goods there are samples and small items. Offices and warehouses are in this one place. Like caravansaries, wholesalers work in Saras.
  7. Chaharsu/Charsu: It is an intersection where two Rastehs of a big bazaar meet. They are architecturally built as beautifully as possible. It is served as the station of the head guard of a bazaar.
  8. Bazarcheh: It is a roofed bazaar in a smaller scale at any quarter of a city where local people can easily do shopping.
  9. Bazaary: it refers to a person who has a business in a bazaar as a merchant, wholesaler, retailer, broker, money exchanger, etc.

The biggest square of a city was situated at the entrance or exit of a bazaar like Naqsh-e-Jahan Sq. in Esfehan.

Therefore, in a more general and comprehensive sense, a bazaar consists of a set of roofed stores along with passageways and corridors as well as caravansaries, Saras, Timchehs, etc. There are also other public services like bathhouses, schools and mosques and so on in the same complex to satisfy various needs of the people inside bazaars.

Arrangement of Shops in Iranian Bazaars

People belonging to different walks of life were living near or far from bazaars. Bazaars were either too live or too dead quarters of a city at various times or occasions.

Knowing all above said information is not enough to come to feel the life inside bazaars. We need to know:

Social Aspects of Iranian Bazaars

People of the same guild have to have their shops next to each other to prevent any disturbances or add to their security. Bazaaries have played key roles in the policies of Iran, because the main means of economy used to be bazaars. Today, as a result of modernization, they are gradually losing their former influence.

There are various jobs for those who are working inside bazaars like, merchants, distributors, brokers, money exchangers, porters, etc. It will not be precise to introduce all bazaaries as one, but there are lots of characteristics in common among them. Many of the people still working in bazaars are not educated compared to the other guilds of Iranian society. They know enough to run their own business. Also, the quality of life among those guilds inside the bazaars who make a lot of money is usually lower than middle-class educated people outside bazaars.

As the cities are growing in a huge scale in Iran, the distances are growing longer and longer within them. Therefore, it will be quite time consuming to take a trip from a spot in a large city to the other spot where the bazaar of the city is located. So, people prefer to go shopping in their neighborhood unless they need to buy plenty of items. Then, it will be worth to take such a trip and time to buy things all in a place and relatively cheaper.

Temporary Bazaars in Iran

In addition, in villages or less populated spots, there are two other types of temporary bazaars: 1) Seasonal bazaars, and 2) Day bazaars.

  1. “Seasonal bazaars” are the gatherings in which some of the seasons? products are temporarily put to sale. They still can be found in some areas of Iran.
  2. “Day bazaars” are the gatherings held once a week in the areas with dispersed population, like in various corners of north Iran or desert areas. One may see entertainers, tea sellers, colorfully dressed people and many other attractions producing an atmosphere like shopping festivals, but in a traditional way.
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Chronometry in Iran

Calendar Building in form of a fire temple, Niasar, Iran

Calendar Building in form of a fire temple, Niasar, Iran

 

The very precise Iranian chronometry started at Nimrooz (meaning half of day), SE of Iran, on 62 degrees E meridian, at the 6th of April 1725 B.C. It is called Nimrooz, because thousands of years ago ancient Iranians knew when the Sun was setting in the east and rising in the west it was noon at Nimrooz.

The surprising point is the fact that this chronometry, which was carried out more than 3700 years ago, complies precisely with today?s calculations in mathematics and physics.

We are now sure that chronometry had first been lunar. Later it became solar lunar in which years were solar and months were lunar.

Old & New Avestan Chronometry Methods

Some say that Iranian chronometry calculated based on solar & lunar methods has been derived from Babylonia. Some say it has nothing to do with Babylonia and is independently Iranian. But the chronometry performed in 1725 B.C. is a solar-based one referred to as Old Avestan Chronometry (OAC) and the one that started during the reign of Darius is called New Avestan Chronometry (NAC).

The calculation of the leap year in NAC was very difficult and needed corrections. So 10 years after the advent of Islam when Yazdgerd III took power in Iran, he ordered NAC to be changed into a new method, called it Yazdgerdy calendar and stepped up to the throne on the first day of the first month of that year.

After the collapse of Sassanians by Arabs many Zoroastrians emigrated to India and Pakistan. They are still using Yazdgerdy calendar for their private activities and the official calendar of the country for other works.

OAC is one of the wonders of science beginning almost 40 centuries ago. Without any sophisticated instruments, the genius people of the time could work out a precise calendar. To examine the solar beams of light and their shades for chronometry, they had built special buildings through which the 62 degrees E meridian was passing. In ancient world, Nimrooz was the indicating base of chronometry.

The 62 degrees E meridian was considered 0 degree then, but tens of centuries later another spot on the Earth, Greenwich, replaced this point and Nimrooz was regarded as situated on the 62 degrees E meridian.

Zarathustra is also said to have observed in this observatory and a small structure near that building is believed to be his tomb according to local people.

Calendar Buildings in Iran

In addition to these structures, there are many other ancient structures used as observatories like Chogha Zanbil ziggurat near Susa and Zarathustra?s ka?be (cube) near Persepolis. Also some believe that tens of other structures believed to be holy buildings, fire temples (called Chahar Taqy meaning four-arched building), had been used as calendar buildings.

Time Division in Old Avestan Calendar (OAC)

According to OAC, time is divided as follows:

There are 2820-year periods. Each period consists of:

  1. 21 X 28-years periods. 128 years equals: 1X 29-years period plus 3 X 33-years period.
  2. 01 X 32-years period. 132 years equals: 1 X 29-years period and 2 X 33-years period plus 1 X 37-years period.

Jalaly Calendar

It was 29 centuries later when Omar Khayyam, the famous Iranian poet and mathematician understood this calculation and wrote it down.

Since Jalal-ed-din Malek Shah had ordered a precise calendar to be regulated it was called Jalaly calendar. So the origin of the present Jalaly calendar in Iran goes back to the calculations in 1725 B.C, which is the most precise one in the world, according to contemporary scholars.

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Water Management in Ancient Persia

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Ancient Persians have always been well-known for the ways they had treated water, supplied it, preserved it, harnessed it, transferred it, redirected it and distributed it. Water management in a geographical location where it cannot be found abundantly all year round is a challenge by itself. It represents the determination of a nation to survive and thrive.

There are different water-related structures and facilities that are still there in Iran for the Iranians as well as foreign travelers to visit and appreciate how mater has been managed for centuries in this country. I am going to introduce some of them here so that you can have a general picture about them.

Kariz (Qanat) Water Supplement System

In a different post about Kariz (Qanat), I’ve explained how interesting this system is. In principle, ancient Persians, who arrived in Iranian plateau after migrating from Caucasus mountains around 3000 years ago, settled in south and central Iran. These two areas are the places where we have most of such water management instances. Kariz is an underground aqueduct dug by shovel and spike through all sorts of soil and rocks to transfer water from high mountains located tens of kilometers away from the human settlements that have no easily accessible sources of water.

People did not leave their territories for discovering better living conditions. Instead, they invented this system using natural resources and laws to let water flow in man-made water channels in a smartly-devised gradient and run down the ducts for long distances to bring life to villages and towns. Up to this point, water has been transferred. Now, it’s time to harness the power of flowing water and preserve it.

Water Reservoirs in Human Settlements

A water reservoir with four wind catchers

A water reservoir with four wind catchers

 

Huge underground tanks were built and insulated using traditional cement called Saruj for keeping the water that had arrived in a village after a long journey. Such structures are called Ab Anbar in Farsi, meaning water storage. There are two openings, one inlet and one outlet, at two sides of such structures at slightly different elevations.

Water was filling these tanks from one side and leaving them on the other. So, there was always a constant flow of water. It was never still. That’s why it could always be kept fresh and drinkable. Besides, the other vernacular energy-saving invention of Persians, Badgir (wind catcher), was implemented in these water reservoirs. At least a couple of them were constructed at both sides of such tanks and a dome covered the top of the tanks.

Badgirs let the air blow in from one side and out from the other. So, water was always exposed to fresh air too. A piece of salt rock was also thrown into the water to make sure it keeps water clean. Some other openings were worked out to have the light in as well. I’ve explained these structures at vernacular structures of Iran. You can read it to learn more about them.

Traditional Ice Houses of Iran

An Ice House with its wall casting shade on northern side in winter

An Ice House with its wall casting shade on northern side in winter

People loved to have something icy cold in the hot summer time. Although central Iran and eastern part of it was not so arid at the time when people started devising such systems for water management in ancient Persia, very warm climate demanded having some ice and icy refreshment to make and consume in  summer time.

Desert nights were quite cold and water could freeze. This is exactly what people needed to make ice out of water in ditches or pools next to a wall adjacent to a large mud-and-brick dome covering a huge storage underneath. Every night ice was made and the next day the wall cast shade when the ice needed to be preserved in a cool place. The ice made as such could be kept in such structures until the end of summer due to the efficient insulation system planned for ice-houses.

Multi-Functional Solid Bridges

33-arch bridge in Esfehan from 16th century reviving the ancient styles

33-arch bridge in Esfehan from 16th century reviving the ancient styles

The oldest remnants of bridges trace back to Sassanian period, 3rd to 7th centuries. They are so strongly built that are still partially standing despite all the forcefully flooding events slapping them for centuries. Most of these bridges have been constructed on very powerful rivers at the south west of Iran. The main material contributing to the solidity of these structures was Saruj, the same traditional cement I referred to above.

There were arches built on top of the Saruj-made foundations with flat roofs on the very top of all the structure. These flat surfaces were connecting ancient roads on one side of the river to the other. The empty spaces between arches and below flat tops created enclosed areas as shelters or shady spots, which could sometimes function to let more raised water to go through and help the entire structure resist against the current.

Stone, rubble, pebble and bricks were glued to one another using Saruj. Once hardened, this locally crafted mixture turned into a hard rock-solid cliff-like wall making its presence felt in the powerful stream of water. Thank to this technique ancient Persians have invented to construct bridges in Iran, we can now view and study another aspect of water management in ancient Persia.

Water Dams in Large Rivers of Iran

What’s left from those ancient water dams indicate the rigidity of the structures they could make and install in those big rivers of Iran blocking the water and using this source of life for agriculture by redirecting them into the farming fields. The same local constructional materials referred to earlier were made use of for building such structures.

Basically, the purpose beyond building some of the bridges in Iran had been to make it possible for the caravans and people cross those rivers while it had been planned to raise the level of water for other purposes like irrigation.

In some cases, even before Sassanians, Persians had redirected part of the water in large rivers to transfer it to agricultural fields by making some water channels. In Shushtar, where you can see several such water management examples, Nahr-e-Dariun is a witness to such skillful  planning.

Water Mills to Harness the Power of Water

Water Mills at Shushtar built in Sassanian period for producing flour

Water Mills at Shushtar built in Sassanian period for producing flour

 

 

Shushtar and Dezful are two great examples of how proficiently people had brought the flowing water under control to use them for operating the mills either in the course of water inside rivers or inside the chambers dug into rocks. Such forceful streams of water could operate the mills for grinding wheat or other grains farmers produced.

In Shushtar, a water dam had been built to redirect the course of water from Karun river into a huge lime rock. Several tunnels had been carved into this rock to lead the water coming from a man-made river into them to turn the turbines and operate the mills.

Are these methods useless today? Are these structures obsolete? Are we so advanced in 21st century to say good-bye to them? You can visit Iran and go to these sites to explore the realities on the ground and learn about the fascinating passion for life in this country.

 

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Glorious Day for Historical City of Yazd

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Glorious Day for Historical City of Yazd   

Marco Polo described Yazd as “a good and noble city” with “a great amount of trade”. This noble city now stands a chance to become another UNESCO cultural and architectural site in Iran.

THE 40th UNESCO World Heritage Committee begins to review 34 global nominations in Krakow, Poland, including Iran’s candidate, the historical texture of Yazd. The 21 members of the committee are to discuss the tentative list from all corners of the world in 10 days to reach a verdict which to some are really important such as the Fort and Shalamar Gardens in Lahore, Pakistan, Historic Centre of Vienna, Austria, Cerrado ecoregion in Brazil.

It has been 9 years since the registration of Historic city of Yazd in the tentative list; however, due to several ill-matched and uncommon constructions which unbalance the historical texture of Yazd, it is still on a lengthy waiting list of Iran. The UNESCO International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS) finds a number of defects in the texture of the city which look somewhat incongruous to the homogeneous clay structure of the area. According to the World Heritage Site website “The historical structure of Yazd is a collection of public-religious architecture in a very large scope comprising of different Islamic architectural elements of different periods in a harmonious combination with climatic conditions.”

For the past two years, Iranian officials of the Cultural Heritage Organization cooperating with the locals and authorities of Yazd by arranging and conducting workshops and meetings, has been doing its best to pave the way for the 22nd UNESCO World Heritage Site in Iran and today finally Yazd joined in the World Heritage List of Iran.

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Mesmerizing Mosque Ceilings That Highlight The Wonders Of Islamic Architecture

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Mesmerizing Mosque Ceilings That Highlight The Wonders Of Islamic Architecture

Architectural history in Iran, back to more than 7500 years ago.In Iranian building the ceiling has an important role specially the Islamic monuments which has religious function.
In mosques , the ceiling is a corridor to closing the sky,thus it has been an important part of mosques and was always regarded br architects.

Mosques in Iran are known for some of the most exquisite architectural designs found around the world.

Since it packs so many incredible eye candies in any place of worship, we have decided to devote a place completely to mosque ceilings. Here are pictures of some of the most incredible mosques found in Iran, and elsewhere around the world. Prepare yourself!

Mesmerizing Mosque Ceilings That Highlight The Wonders Of Islamic Architecture Fatima Masumeh Shrine Qom Iran.jpg
Mesmerizing Mosque Ceilings That Highlight The Wonders Of Islamic Architecture  Fatima Masumeh Shrine Qom
Mesmerizing Mosque Ceilings That Highlight The Wonders Of Islamic Architecture Alighapoo Palace
The most magnificent palaces of 17th century is located. The Ali Qapu palace is well-known palace all over Iran. The first part of palace was built in 1597. It was used as a residential palace. Shah Abbas the great, ordered to construct the palace on the site of palace and garden from the Timurid time.
Mesmerizing Mosque Ceilings That Highlight The Wonders Of Islamic Architecture Amin ol Doleh Timche Kashan.jpg
The Bazaar of Kashan is an old bazaar in the center of the city of Kashan, Iran. It is thought to have been built in the Seljuk era with renovations during the Safavid period.The bazaar has a famous architecture, especially at its Timche-ye Amin od-Dowleh section, where a grand light well was built in the 19th century.
Mesmerizing Mosque Ceilings That Highlight The Wonders Of Islamic Architecture Chehel sotoon Palace
The palace of Chehel Sotun (palace of 40 pillars) is located in a vast beautiful garden. The original garden was larger than now. The present garden is 60000 square meters.The first part of palace was built during Shah Abbas the great period. The beautiful frontal porch and the mirror ornamented Eivan were built during Shah Abbas the second era.
Mesmerizing Mosque Ceilings That Highlight The Wonders Of Islamic Architecture Dowlat Abad Garden
The Dowlatabad Garden located in Yazd, central Iran, is a Persian architecture jewels.The Garden is an authentic Iranian garden that annually attracts thousands of domestic and foreign tourists.This is a complex built according to the original Iranian architectural style and consists of a large garden and some buildings.
Mesmerizing Mosque Ceilings That Highlight The Wonders Of Islamic Architecture Golestan Palace Tehran
Golestan Palace is the oldest of the historic monuments in Tehran, a world heritage,the Golestan Palace (also Gulistan Palace) (The Rose Garden Palace) belongs to a group of royal buildings that were once enclosed within the mud-thatched walls of Tehran’s Historic Arg (citadel).
Mesmerizing Mosque Ceilings That Highlight The Wonders Of Islamic Architecture Imam mosque Isfahan.
Imam Mosque built during the Safavids period, it is an excellent example of Islamic architecture of Iran, and regarded as the masterpiece of Persian Architecture. The Imam Mosque of Esfahan is one of the everlasting masterpieces of architecture in Iran and all over the world. It is registered along with the Naghsh-i Jahan Square as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Mesmerizing Mosque Ceilings That Highlight The Wonders Of Islamic Architecture Nsir ol molk mosque
This mosque is situated at the end of the Lotfali Khan-e-Zand Street. Nasirol Molk who was one of the elite of Shiraz, is the founder of this mosque. This mosque is unique for its tile work and architecture. The construction work of mosque began in 1293 AH. and was finally terminated in 1305 AH., by Mohammad Hassan Me’mar and Mohammad Reza Kashi Paz Shirazi .
Mesmerizing Mosque Ceilings That Highlight The Wonders Of Islamic Architecture Sheikh Lotfolah mosque
Sheikh Lotf Allah Mosque is one of the architectural masterpieces of Safavid Iranian architecture, standing on the eastern side of Naghsh-i Jahan Square, Isfahan, Iran.Construction of the mosque started in 1615 and was finished in 1618. It was built by Shah Abbas I of the Safavid dynasty. The builing functioned as a prayer hall and lecture hall.
Mesmerizing Mosque Ceilings That Highlight The Wonders Of Islamic Architecture Tabatabai House Kashan
Tabatabai House,This house was constructed in 1881. It originally comprised two separate buildings, elaborately integrated into a single structure. The most important sections of the house are located along its southern wing. This side is marked by a graceful veranda.
Mesmerizing Mosque Ceilings That Highlight The Wonders Of Islamic Architecture Vank Church
Holy Savior Cathedral also known as Vank Cathedral and The Church of the Saintly Sisters, is the most visited cathedral in Isfahan, Iran. Vank means “cathedral” in the Armenian language. Among the churches built in the Jolfa District of Isfahan, the magnificent and architecturally significant “Vank” Cathedral is the most famous.
Mesmerizing Mosque Ceilings That Highlight The Wonders Of Islamic Architecture seyed Mosque Isfahan
Seyyed mosque is the biggest and the most famous mosque from the Qajar era in Isfahan. It was founded by Seyyed Mohammad Bagher Shafti, one of the most famous clergymen in Isfahan. It was founded in the middle of the 19th century, but its tiling lasted until the end of the century.

 

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